Arco 2017 Lead World Cup Finals
Expectations were high going into the Lead World Cup finals in Arco. We were to see the debut of Alexander Megos in a World Cup final after he had dominated semi finals, and likewise, America’s Ashima Shiraishi would be making her debut in finals after a long deliberation by the judges and routesetters who in the end threw out an appeal by the Norwegians, cutting their climber from the finals and allowing Ashima the dream debut. There was plenty of bad feeling in the arena though as to those of us watching, Tina Johnsen Hafsaas had made positive movement off the hold Ashima fell on. However as the judges said the volume she’d reached for wasn’t listed as a hold, Ashima had matched her and would go through on countback.
Starting off it was clear the women’s route was tough, with a bouldery heelhook sequence stopping many of the field. Ashima, Julia Chanourdie and Janja Garnbret all being stopped on the dynamic move out and being seperated on countback. The only two who made it through that move were Switzerland’s Anne-Sophie Koller who finished second, and Korean star Jain Kim who was scored to the same place after timing out. Nether the less, she timed out with victory.
In the men’s a tricky dyno low was set to test the climbers, and almost all the climbers moved through with ease, to the delight of the spectators watching the spectacular move. The only climber it did stop, amazingly, was top qualifier Alexander Megos who stalled out trying to static the move from a toehook.
Max Rudigier climbed superbly to secure a strong third position, beaten out by the ever impressive Adam Ondra and the victor Jakob Schubert who also timed out, just securing victory as the clock ran out. Speaking to Adam after the event, he confirmed he’d basically sweated off the rest, the sweat running down his arm causing him to peel off mid move.
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